ATV Carburetor Adjustment, Cleaning and Jetting Explained
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ATV Carburetor Adjustment and Tuning
ATV Carburetor Adjustment involves tuning your ATV’s carb for maximum performance. How do I know my jetting is off? My ATV bogs down a lot, is jetting to blame? I have performance parts, what now? These are all common questions so lets get you up to speed on ATV carburetor adjustment.
You can tune your own ATV jets and avoid common jetting mistakes if you understand some jetting basics, explained below. A comprehensive installation guide will come with the jetting kit you purchase for your make and model of ATV so instead this guide will focus on explaining the basic principles of how ATV jets work. How jetting works…
#1 – The first thing you need to remember is that ATV jetting refers to throttle position, not engine rpm. Each jet is effective for a specific throttle position range. The pilot jet, or pilot screw as it is sometimes referred to, controls the flow of fuel between Idle speed and about one eight of wide open throttle (WOT). The needle jet controls the flow of fuel from the one eight position up to about the three quarter throttle position. Lastly your main jet controls the flow of fuel between the three quarter and wide open throttle positions.
#2 – The second thing you need to know is that aftermarket performance parts will change your jetting requirements. Increased engine performance usually means an increased demand for fuel so learning ATV carburetor adjustment techniques is important.
Other factors that affect jetting are rev limiters, altitude and fouled plugs if your jetting is off. Altitude directly affects engine performance because the higher you go from sea level the thinner the air gets.
Pilot Jet – Pilot Screw
The pilot jet, also referred to as pilot screw, controls carburetor fuel/air mixture between Idle and 1/4 throttle. Turning the screw IN makes the fuel/air mixture leaner. Turning the screw OUT makes the fuel/air mixture richer. Lean means less gas, rich means more gas.
Every jet is identified by a number and that number relates directly to the size of the opening inside the jet. Again smaller is leaner, larger is richer. When jetting your carb if you find that you need to turn the pilot jet all the way in to improve response then you likely need to switch to a smaller number of screw.
If on the other hand you need to turn it more than 2.5 turns out you likely need a larger numbered screw. When your engine bogs down at the smallest increase in throttle position your pilot jetting is likely too rich.
Needle and Needle Jet
The needle jet and its needle controls the fuel/air mixture from the 1/8th throttle position all the way up to the 3/4 throttle position. The needle within the needle jet is a long tapered pin. As you increase the throttle position the pin pulls out of its jet allowing the fuel/air mixture to become richer. There are several different shapes and diameter of needles/needle jets but the needle jet is often left alone during tuning as it doesn’t affect idle or top end performance. The same rich/lean characteristics apply as with the pilot screw.
Main Jet
The main jet controls the fuel/air mixture from 3/4 throttle position up to wide open throttle. Again the main jet is numbered and a larger number indicates a larger hole and a richer mixture. A stock engine will perform well with a stock main jet but once engine performance parts are added its likely that you will need to revisit at least the main jet of your carburetor. Different performance part combinations will create different demands from your carburetor. Anything that increases horsepower will also increase fuel demand.
All the performance parts in the world won’t improve performance if you don’t tune your carb. If you have a rev limiter in place you may need to tune or upgrade that as well because a rev limiter will tend to bog down the engine at full throttle. Make sure to follow the instructions included with most jetting kits.
Steps to tune your ATV Carb In The Field
Now that you, hopefully, understand a bit more about the basics of how ATV carburetor parts work these are the steps to take if you’re in a jam on the trails. Blockage, damage, fuel contamination, mud in the air intake system and other conditions can cause your ATV carburetor to be unable to deliver the right amount of fuel to your ATV engine. You always want to tune your ATV carburetor at home or in the shop but that’s not always possible. If you’re in a jam, this is what you can do.
- #1 – Visually inspect your ATV. Check for any signs of a fuel leak. With the engine off grasp the spark plug wire and make sure it’s securely attached to the engine. Look for signs of obvious damage or dirt in the air intake. Make sure the battery is properly attached.
- #2 – If you have a phone with signal let someone know that you are on the trail and that your ATV is not working properly, tell them where you are.
Safety first.
- #3 – If you have the owner’s manual for your ATV follow the carburetor tuning instructions carefully. Every ATV is slightly different.
- #4 – Still stuck? No owner’s manual? No screwdriver? OK. Visually inspect the ATVs carburetor and locate the air/fuel adjustment screw. This is not attaching the carburetor to the engine, it’s going to turn freely if you adjust it.
- #5 – Using a key, or edge of a driver’s license or anything small enough to fit in the carb adjustment screw, carefully turn the screw clockwise(inward) as far as it will go. Do not turn it outwards or it will eventually fall out. Inward to start, all the way in but don’t force it too tightly.
- #6 – With the screw turned all the way in the ATV will be in the lean position, very little fuel will pass. From there turn the screw one quarter turn out and try to start the engine. Optimal settings will typically be 1.5 to 3 turns out on engines in good working order.
- #7 – If it won’t start or sputters and stops turn the screw another quarter turn outwards and try again.
You will repeat this process until the ATV, hopefully, starts and runs without stalling.
- #8 – Don’t worry if the engine doesn’t sound well at this point. When it’s running without stalling your air to fuel mixture will be close to what the engine needs to run. You can continue to adjust it a bit until the engine sounds better and runs without hesitation. If you turn it too much you will eventually flood the engine with too much fuel and this will make it bog down and be hard to start as well. A flooded condition will require time for the fuel to evaporate.
- #9 – Get your ATV to the garage or a shop as soon as possible to prevent engine damage. An ATV engine that runs too lean will run hotter and you risk burning a piston or damaging rings. If it runs too rich you risk valve damage and backfiring.
- TIP: Always keep an owner’s manual, a small flashlight and a set of basic tools with your ATV when out on the trails.
- TIP: When planning a trip with your ATV check to see if there is a major elevation change between where you normally ride and where you are going.
You may need an ATV carburetor adjustment if there is a change in altitude to account for the change in air pressure. Air pressure decreases at higher altitude(adjust inward to give more air) and it increases at lower altitude(adjust outward to give more fuel).
Carburetor Jet Size Chart
Carburetor jets control the amount of fuel which is mixed with air inside the throttle body of your carburetor. This carburetor jet size chart shows you how effective each jet is at specific throttle levels. A Pilot jet is effective at idle speed up to 1/4 throttle(low-range). A needle jet is effective from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle(mid-range). A main jet is effective from 3/4 throttle up to wide open throttle(top-end).
When diagnosing a carburetor or tuning problem look at the jet responsible for the range in which the problem is occurring.
ALWAYS follow the manufacturer’s specifications whenever possible. Jet size is usually stamped onto the jet itself, typically in milimeters(mm), ranging from small to large. Changing a carb jet for a smaller sized jet will reduce fuel flow. Likewise, installing a larger jet will increase fuel flow and may help a performance engine run more smoothly. Note: an engine that runs rich is less likely to sustain heat damage than and engine that runs lean.
I hope that this carburetor tuning guide helps you understand how jets work so that you can best dial in your ATV for maximum performance(and fun!).
General ATV Carburetor Cleaning Instructions
- Put on some safety glasses and prepare a clean workspace
- Remove carburetor from ATV and clean exterior with a brush and soapy water
- Remove float bowl taking care not to damage it’s gasket
- Remove float pin and float assembly and check for wear and damage
- Remove needle jet and inspect for blockage and damage
- Remove Pilot and main jet and inspect for blockage and damage
- Important: Turn the fuel air mixture screw all the way in and count the number of turns until it is fully tightened.
You will need this information to adjust the mixture upon re-assembly.
- Remove the fuel air mixture screw
- Remove the throttle adjustment screw
- Thoroughly clean all components and inspect for obstructions and damage. Note: compressed air is extremely helpful in clearing obstructions.
- Replace any damaged components, seals and gaskets
- Re-assemble the ATV carburetor in reverse order
- Tip: lay parts out in the order the were removed to make assembly easier
- Adjust the fuel to air ratio by turning the mixture screw the number of turns you recorded earlier
- Re-install the carburetor to your ATV and start the engine. Additional adjusting may be required.
Conclusion
Carburetor jets become clogged naturally over time and a periodic carburetor cleaning is required. Always consult with your ATV owner’s manual for specific maintenance instructions. Always check the fuel lines, filter and gas tank for contaminants and clean as required at the same time to avoid further clogging.
The majority of carburetor problems are a result of blockage and worn out parts. Troubleshooting a clean ATV carburetor is also much easier than troubleshooting a dirty carb. Typical tools required include a flat head screw-driver, compressed air, an 8mm wrench and carburetor cleaner. Note: Some gaskets and plastic components will swell if exposed to carb cleaner so remove these prior to use.
Polaris xc sp 500 carburetor adjustment.
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Hey guys, i have little to no experience with snowmobiles and would like to adjust the carburetor on my xp sp 500 ( 2001 or 2002).
I took some pictures of the mikuni carburetor and would like to know what each screw does and how should i set em.
I can see what is probably idle adjustment on top of the carb and there seems to be a screw and a spring that has a pin going trough it, what’s that and how to adjust it? I’m not sure if there’s any other adjustment screws thought.
Any help is highly appreciated.
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Neen more info why you need to change the carb settings. Five finger drift can get expensive if no knowledge what your doing.
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too slow said:
Neen more info why you need to change the carb settings. Five finger drift can get expensive if no knowledge what your doing.
Click to expand…
Well… sometimes when it’s sitting at idle it seems to flood, because when you go full throttle it doesn’t rev up and smokes like hell.
And secondly when you go full throttle, at around mid rpm or certain speed you can feel the power finally kick in and sleds starts moving nicely. Could it be running off one carb and then at mid point second carb kicks in?
I’m experienced with 2 strokes and carburetors when it comes to chainsaws but sleds seem a little different.
But yea peeps have messed around with the adjustment screws, so the adjustments are probably out of whack. I
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Has anyone replaced the needle/seat o rings on these carbs?…i’d probably recommend there to start before tweaking the fuel screws. Those o-rings get hard and leaky as the sled gets older. They can cause flooding and a really rich condition.
Make sure your pilot air jets aren’t plugged from belt dust getting in them.
Can’t tell by these pics, but make sure your carb venting hose are fully hooked up.
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What too slow said. Clean the internals of the carbs while your at it. Also it could be belt related. Wrong belt, incorrect belt hight znd deflection. Possibly bad clutch internals. I had a 2002 500 xc sp that did that. It was 2 bad motor mounts. The carb needle and seat o rings are a common problem though.
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Needle/seat o-rings have not been replaced, i’ll see if i can find a repair kit for that carb. Can you tell me if it’s the Mikuni tm38 carburetor and does it have air or fuel adjustment screw?
When i cleaned the carb a year ago , i managed to ruin the flat head on the pilot jet, not sure how i’m gonna get it out.
I don’t think it’s the belt or clutch issue, i’m fairly sure it’s related to carburetor.
Vin number on the sled: 4XANP5CS61B108597
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I read where someone posted that polaris now sells those o rings separate as arctic cat… the arctic cat part number is 6505-875
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Allar said:
Needle/seat o-rings have not been replaced, i’ll see if i can find a repair kit for that carb. Can you tell me if it’s the Mikuni tm38 carburetor and does it have air or fuel adjustment screw?
When i cleaned the carb a year ago , i managed to ruin the flat head on the pilot jet, not sure how i’m gonna get it out.![]()
I don’t think it’s the belt or clutch issue, i’m fairly sure it’s related to carburetor.
Vin number on the sled: 4XANP5CS61B108597
Click to expand…
Leave all the carb settings alone for now, replace those o rings, and remove the paj’s, along with the rest of the jets for cleaning. The paj is screwed into the lower rear bell of the carb…the air box side. Imo, if your unable to service the carb internals by just removing a pilot jet, maybe its time to have someone more knowledgable do it with proper tools, or try to search for some youtube videos on these 38mm rack TM mikuni flat slides . Just seating the fuel screws that have a needle tip too hard can cost you a new carb for these sleds. I’m not trying to demean your mechanical ability, but i’ve run into this before with guys that bite off way more then they can chew.
Oh yeah, there are no air screws on your sleds carbs to adjust..they have fixed pilot air jets that i’ve mentioned above.
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I’m betting it is the air jets clogged. As for the pilot jet, I use a small left hand drill bit to get them out when these things happen. I put a lot of down pressure on bit and keep bumping trigger on drill and they usually come out.
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I do remember that i cleaned all the jets under the float bowl but i’m not so sure about the air pilot jet.. so you might be onto something.
Regarding the o-rings, searching by the artic cat’s part number gave me no hits on my country but that was to be expected due to poor support.
Does anyone happen to know the ID and OD of these o-rings? i have a metric NBR o-ring kit that might have these or very similar o-rings, they are no Viton but if they last for a year or two, i’m fine with that.
The vent line that can be see on picture, doesn’t connect to anything it just sits on top of the motor lol, so i assumed it’s a overflow but apparently it’s supposed to be connected to the air box.
The vent line on the other carburetor seems to be missing completely, previous owner must of messed around with these because i certainly did not.
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Imo, from what ive run into in the past with those early tm flat slides, its pretty rare to see clogged paj’s but its happened. Seems i recalled all those carb vent lines on sleds of that year with the ves small block engines have to be vented to the air box in some way. Just a hose hanging loose will make your sled super rich from mid to full throttle.
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Finally got some time to take the carburetors off the sled and took out all the jets and the float.
O-rings were tight but some wear could be seen, one of the pilot jets that had stripped head seemed to have smaller hole due to damage to philips head but non of the jets (8) were clogged.
Overal carb looked really clean.
Hopefully the atv/snowmobile shop near me has the jets and the o-rings but i keep my hopes low.
I screwed the fuel screws all the way in and counted turns, one of the carbs was 0.5 turns out from lightly seated and the other one was 2.5 turns.
So at this point it would make no sense to expect the sled to run properly with those settings. I’m gonna keep searching for the fuel screw factory settings but if some of you knows the factory settings please let me know.
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2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated is a normal starting point to have on that sled. You’ll likely need some minor tweaking either way to get a sharp throttle response. Having one carb 1/2 turn out on the fuel screw isn’t right. Either it was just set that far off, or there is an issue with that carb that someone has it that lean.
Have you resolved the venting issue?
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Thanks!
Ye that’s what i’m thinking aswell, we’ll find out once i get new jets n o-rings.
I found the fittings on the airbox, just need to purchase a hose and i should be able to get the vents connected.
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Little update, the sled is running nicely now, no smoke, no idle bog and is really zappy and strong )
So i ended up pressure testing the o-ring and needle and as suspected one of the needles was leaking bad. I bought aftermarket float assembly and replaced it, obviously that fixed the idle flooding issue
I could not find new jets for the carb so i just cleaned everything and put em back together.
I backed out the fuel screw 1.5 turns from lightly seated and for now that seems to be pretty good, will check plugs tomorrow and if they look allright then i’ll leave em as they are.
It did die on me once when i gave it a little zap of throttle at idle , rpm came down and stalled.
Thanks too slow and everyone else for helping me out!
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Just for the record. When you are going to store the sled for the off season, put a bit of oil in the gas tank. Then run it to get the oil mixture in the carbs. This will keep the o rings lubed and prevent them from drying out.
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340 TX-L said:
Just for the record. When you are going to store the sled for the off season, put a bit of oil in the gas tank. Then run it to get the oil mixture in the carbs. This will keep the o rings lubed and prevent them from drying out.
Click to expand…
Its good for the fuel pump to
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Having some issues, when i let go off the throttle to stop there was LOUD bang from the exhaust ( backfire ) and that scared me so i hit the kill switch but it started fine after that.
Sometimes when i give some throttle at idle the rpm drops so low that it almost wants to stall. And when riding and letting off the throttle and when slowed down and pressing throttle nothing happens..
Could this be caused by the:
A: TSS- The throttle has A LOT more freeplay than it supposed to have , i will adjust it tomorrow.
B: Spark plug – I was sold the NGK BR9ES but when i checked the manual it states for Champion RN57CYY which should be NGK BPR9ES.
Previous spark plugs used and sold by the same place were NGK BR9EYA…….
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Run the correct spark plug. These engines are designed to run the one designed for it. If you choose to run ngk, than be sure there BPR.
Ok as for your bang. You mentioned loose throttle. You found your problem. You need to adjust the throttle cable so there is 10 thousands of an inch between the throttle block, and lever. There are safety switches in the throttle block causing the issue. After setting throttle cable adjustment, check the oil pump alignment and adjust if needed.
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340 TX-L said:
Run the correct spark plug. These engines are designed to run the one designed for it. If you choose to run ngk, than be sure there BPR.
Ok as for your bang. You mentioned loose throttle. You found your problem. You need to adjust the throttle cable so there is 10 thousands of an inch between the throttle block, and lever. There are safety switches in the throttle block causing the issue. After setting throttle cable adjustment, check the oil pump alignment and adjust if needed.Click to expand…
Dont run BR-9 ES or EYAs in it. BPR9ES are fine. My xc has 8000 miles on it and never foulded a plug or been apart. Still runs like new.
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Adjusting the carburetor of an ATV – how to adjust the carburetor on an ATV 50, 110, 125, 150 cubes with your own hands
In order for the ATV to work like a clock, the rider needs to regularly carry out a complete maintenance of the equipment. And a key element of maintenance is ATV carburetor adjustment. Over time, the system starts to work incorrectly, which increases fuel consumption, worsens dynamics and other problems appear. So how do you adjust an ATV carburetor?
Why do I need to tune the fuel system?
The operation and life of the engine directly depends on the quality of the fuel mixture. The carburetor is responsible for the preparation of the composition, but after prolonged use of the equipment, the settings “go astray”. This results in:
- Problems starting the power unit. For example, if a 125cc ATV carburetor is not adjusted, the unit may stop starting or stall.
- Poor throttle response and power drop. Due to incorrect system settings, the engine speed decreases, respectively, its power drops.
- Dips during acceleration. Traction can disappear for one or several seconds. But the most unpleasant thing is that such failures occur sequentially, which significantly interferes with speed gain.
- Decreasing dynamics. The quad becomes “sluggish” and reluctantly picks up speed. In addition, jerks appear when accelerating.
- Excessive carbon deposits. An improperly prepared mixture leads to the fact that a large amount of soot appears in the combustion chamber, due to which the engine overheats. Naturally, this reduces the life of the engine and leads to its breakdown.
Many riders who decide to buy an inexpensive ATV simply do not spare the technique and ignore this procedure. But even if you plan to change your device in 1.5-2 years, adjustment is needed. The reason for this is increased fuel consumption. A quad with an untuned carburetor “eats” 30-40% more gasoline, and these are tangible costs.
How to avoid problems?
So how do you adjust the carburetor on a Chinese ATV? For this you need:
- Set idle speed. The procedure is performed using a special screw, which is responsible for the quality of the composition and the number of revolutions.
- Optimize fuel composition quality.
- Adjust the petrol level.
However, it is important to remember that all adjustments are made only with a “clean” carburettor. This means that the rider needs to remove all the dirt from the node and flush the system to remove condensation and sediment from it.
Note: The engine must be warmed up to operating temperature immediately before adjustment.
How to adjust the carburetor on an ATV?
To set the carburetor idle speed, the float chamber must first be cleared of fuel. To do this, start the ATV, close the fuel cock and wait until the machine stalls (5-10 minutes). To speed up the process, you can take a little ride on the quadric. Of course, gasoline can be drained, but in any case you will have to warm up the device, so the first method of “removing” gasoline is more effective.
Then:
- Open the tap.
- Start the machine.
- Screw in the screw (#2) that is responsible for the quality of the mixture until it stops. Remember that to enrich the composition, turn to the right, and to deplete it to the left. If at this stage the quadric stalls, then there are problems (the pipes are depressurized).
- Turn screw #2 once (to the left).
- Increase idle speed with #3 bolt. Start the quad and check the RPMs. They will be slightly higher than the standard indicators.
- Remove bolt #2 (turn it 2-2.5 times). After that, the motor should reach maximum speed.
- Start correcting the system using screw #3. Focus on sound. The engine should run smoothly, without strain.
- Step on the gas. So you make sure that the speed does not fall.
Read the manual before adjusting the carburetor on a 125cc ATV to be sure. Remember that the location of the bolts is different in different devices, so read the documentation in advance.
How to adjust the quality of the prepared mixture?
To evaluate the quality of the fuel composition, make a test run. After that, unscrew the candle, and evaluate its condition. If it is:
- Brown (near the insulator). This means that everything is in order. But if such a shade is only on one side, the composition is too poor.
- Black (on insulator). Soot signals that the system is supplying a lot of fuel. However, if the entire candle is black, then the composition is too rich, which increases gas mileage.
- White (insulator). This means that there is not enough fuel and air. And if the mixture is too lean, the whole candle will be white.
- Red. This means that there is a high concentration of metals in the composition.
Also look out for these “symptoms”: damaged tip (electrode failure), oil deposits (damage to rings and caps), chips and inclusions (sign of motor failure).
To adjust the mixture you need to twist the needle cover and pull it out. To get the needle, pull out the cable. After that, move the ring in the required direction (lower – more air, but less fuel and vice versa). Then start the engine and make sure it doesn’t stall.
Adjusting the petrol level
The last step in adjusting the 125cc ATV carburetor is adjusting the petrol level. To do this, you need:
- Find the drain hose.
- Raise the bottom of the tube.
- Remove the screw and remove the mixture.
- Open the float chamber.
- Find the tab that covers the needle.
- Bend it down slightly to increase the fuel flow rate.
Note: Adjust as carefully as possible as system components are very fragile. Ideally, carburetor tuning should be done by a specialist.
06/16/2020
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Adjusting the carburetor on an ATV with your own hands. –
It often seems like an insurmountable task for beginners to tune and adjust the carburetor of an ATV, but in fact, it is far from being the case. Using our instructions, you can easily set up a carburetor with your own hands.
Due to improper carburetor settings, problems such as: failures during acceleration, jerks while driving, uncertain start of the engine, poor acceleration dynamics, overheating, loss of power, increased fuel consumption, formation of deposits in the combustion chamber.
So what exactly are we going to tune?
- Idle adjustment
- Setting the quality of the mixture (special screw on the carburetor).
- Setting the quality of the mixture (by shifting the position of the needle)
Attention! The adjustment is carried out under the condition of a warm engine and a clean carburetor.
First, make sure there is no condensation in the carburetor. First, you need to drain the gasoline from the float chamber, for this you need to close the fuel cock and partially unscrew the screw No. 1, after the gasoline has drained from the float chamber, tighten the screw No. 1.
Let’s look at photos of candles with various deposits and defects.
A 100% indicator of a correctly adjusted combustible mixture is carbon deposits on a candle.
- Spark plug with engine running without fault.
- Engine with increased fuel consumption.
- Lean air/fuel mixture.
- Excess amount of additives containing metal.
- Engine after a long period of inactivity.
- Candle inoperative cylinder
- Complete destruction of the central electrode with its ceramic skirt.
- The development or occurrence of oil scraper piston rings.
Consider the location of the screws for adjusting the quality of the mixture and idle speed of carburetors of different models.
#1 Float chamber plug; No. 2 Mixture quality screw;
#3 Idle adjustment screw.
1 – quality adjustment screw at idle; 2 – fuel inlet fitting; 3 – fitting through which you can sleep fuel from the float chamber; 4 – screw-plug of the float chamber.
1 – ventilation tube; 2 – idle speed adjustment screw; 3 – screw for adjusting the composition of the air-fuel mixture.
ATV carburetor speed and mixture adjustment.
1. Start and warm up the engine until it reaches operating temperature.
2. Adjust the idle screw to set the idle speed to normal. Completely, until it stops, tighten the fuel mixture screw, the engine should stall. If this does not happen, check the tightness of the air supply system from the air filter.
3. Loosen the fuel mixture screw 1 turn. (Turning the screw clockwise, we enrich the mixture, unscrewing it counterclockwise, we lean).
4. Start the engine and, by adjusting the idle screw, set the speed slightly higher than usual
5. Slowly unscrew the fuel mixture screw until the engine reaches maximum speed (we unscrew the screw no more than 2 turns, but depending range may fluctuate due to engine wear and other faults).
6. Re-adjust the idle screw to set the idle speed to normal.
7. Press the throttle trigger several times, check if the idle speed is stable.
Mixture quality adjustment with a needle.
Probably you have heard more than once about adjusting the quality of the mixture on the carburetor by manipulating the needle. I note that these are extreme measures, for the initial adjustment, use the mixture quality screw, and only if you do not get the desired result, unscrew the mount and remove the needle. What does she represent? This is the main element that regulates the amount of gasoline supplied to the combustion chamber. Connected directly to the throttle handle through a cable. When you turn the knob, the needle rises higher, opening up a channel for fuel, thereby delivering more mixture, which increases power, which translates into speed.
You will see 5 grooves on the needle at the attachment point. Initially, the retaining ring fixes it in the central position, this is the best option. But sometimes it is not possible to achieve the required quality of the mixture.